Intimates · Lace lingerie · Lingerie · Partial-Band Bra · Pin-up Girls Bra Pattern · Sewing Intimates

Black and Pink Lace Bra and Panties – Bra from Pin-up Girls Patterns and Panties from Kwik Sew K2325

Hot off my sewing machine!  I just finished a partial-band bra and pantie set made from black stretch galloon lace and fushia powernet that I purchased a few months ago at the Fabric Outlet in San Francisco.  I love the way these two fabrics look together and both are easy to sew.  The plush strap and picot elastics, hook and eye closures and the rings and sliders are from the  Tailor Made Shop.  This is shop always provides the highest quality products.  I love how this new bra and panties set look!

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I made the bra first.  I drafted this partial-band bra pattern starting with a Pin-up Full Band Bra pattern by Beverly Johnson, aka The Fairy Bra Mother, that fits me well.  Next I modified this pattern specifically for using scalloped lace.

The key to success with a lace bra is in getting the lace placed just right on the cups, bands and bridge.  Lace placement is critical so that the bra looks symmetrical; the lace  on one side of the bra should mirror the other.  When sewing lace on to a lining, it tends to shift around and therefore the lace and lining need to be sewn together before the piece is cut.  To start, I cut the pattern pieces from the lining, which is powernet in this case, and use these pieces as the pattern for the lace.   Next, I pin the powernet pieces over the galloon lace so that they are in just the right position.  I roughly cut out the lace, sew 1/4″ around the powernet pattern, attaching the lace to the powernet.  Once I confirm that the placement of the lace and powernet are attached correctly, I cut the lace around the powernet pattern.

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These are the lower cups and the lace placement is just as critical on these as it is on the upper cups; cups must mirror each other from top to bottom

It’s a bit of work to get the lace around the top of the bra, consistently of the upper cups, bridge and strap attachments, to line up perfectly.  The lace on the top of the bridge has to line up perfectly with the lace on the upper cups, as does the lace on the strap attachment pieces.  Keep in mind that there are also 1/4″ seam allowances to account for.  Again, the trick to getting the lace placed just right on the bridge is to place the bridge pattern piece on a larger piece of lace to get it in the right position.  Then use the “stitch and flip” method to attach a similar dimension of the powernet.  Sew both sides of the bridge, and then cut out bridge piece.  This process keeps the pieces stable and in exactly the right placement, prior to cutting.  I have more pictures detailing lace layout for the upper cup in a previous post on making a lace bra .

I used the same method for cutting out the lace band pieces.

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Lace is place on the bottom band accounting for 1/4″ seam allowances – the low point of the lace, called the LOPL, ends at the seam allowance
Bra Strap Attachment
I designed this strap attachment piece specifically for scalloped lace; this piece joins the upper cup to the bra strap

I used the same method to cut the lace and line the strap attachment piece as I did for the bridge piece.   The lace along the top of the bra lines up nicely.

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Note how the lace at the top of the bra looks like one piece from one strap to the other

The inside of the bra looks clean and neat.  Yes, that is a paw.  Kitty, Sophie, does a quality assurance inspection of the bra as each step is finished.

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Next I made the panties.  I used Kwik Sew K2325, view A, for pattern.

Kwik Sew 2325

I cut a XS pantie, view A, for the pantie.  I did a bit of design modification to create an illusion of one piece of the scalloped edge of the galloon lace across the top of the pantie.

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This is the wrong side. showing how the front piece is attached to two side pieces, both of which have the galloon lace on top of the powernet

I created the lace portions of the panties in the same method as for the bra.  I cut the powernet pattern pieces and then determined the correct placement on the lace, sewed the powernet pieces onto larger lace pieces and then cut the lace and powernet pattern piece.

This is the back of the pantie where I used the scalloped edge of the galloon lace to create a border at the top to match the front of the pantie.

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Right side of the back of the pantie

I used cotton knit for the crotch lining, exactly the same color as the powernet.  I used the “burrito method” to attach the crotch lining, and this is described in the pattern instructions.

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And finally, a back view of the bra and pantie set.

Back View

Thank you for reading through my review of these patterns and descriptions of how I made this bra and pantie set.   Now on to garment sewing!  I’ll be making a few bodysuits and a blouse before we head off on our trip to France!

Here is kitty Sophie, taking a break from her QA duties!P1000028

Intimates · Japanese Kimono-Style Robe · Kimono-style robes · Lingerie · Sewing · Sewing Intimates

Kimono Robes – Made from Cotton Fabric from San Francisco’s Fabric Outlet

 

I went out to Omaha a few months ago to help my twin sister as she recovered in the hospital and at home from surgery.  While I was there, she mentioned that she was not able to find a nice bathrobe to replace the kimono-style silk robe that her husband bought her years ago.  This was a perfect opportunity for me to make her a new robe!  So I took her old silk robe back to my sewing studio in California and used it to draft a pattern.  At the same time, the Fabric Outlet was having one of their awesome sales and I picked up some fabulous cotton fabric made in Japan! If you are not in the San Francisco Bay Area, you can order fabric from Fabric Outlet’s Cali Fabric site.  One hint, when you see something you like at the Fabric Outlet, buy it, as it may not be there the next time you visit.

Making these kimono robes was a win-win for both me and my twin – she has a new robe and I have a great pattern, in two lengths and two chest widths, that I’m sewing again and again.  They are perfect for both women and men.  Once I finished drafting the pattern, I made a mock-up of the kimono robe, documented the steps to sew the robe, and incorporated continuous process improvements as I make each robe.  I’ve sewn four kimono robes so far.  I love them all!  Here is a picture of me wearing one made from a substantial cotton seersucker fabric with purple and white stripes, from the Fabric Outlet.

Striped Cotton Robe

I finished the edges with bias tape, except on the pockets where I used my overlocker.  I think these robes looks just as nice on the inside as they do on the outside.

Striped Cotton Kimono Robe Seam FinishingIMG_2496P1000174.JPG

This is the shorter version.  One thing I love about this pattern is the shorter sleeves. They don’t get in the way when I am cooking breakfast the way longer full sleeves do, which are common on RTW kimono robes.

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The longer version is nice, too.

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An internal tie keeps it all together
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A loop to hang the robe is handy

Next, I’ll make a kimono robe from silk, and also more from Japanese cottons.  The Fabric Outlet has lots of beautiful silks and cottons and they are always getting interesting fabrics in from various parts of the world.   I can’t wait until my next fabric-buying trip!

I’d love to hear your thoughts on this pattern and these kimono robes.  What improvements would you suggest?  Thank you for visiting and reading about my latest makes!

 

 

 

Intimates · Lace lingerie · Lingerie · Sewing · Sewing Intimates

White Lace Bra – Partial Band Pin-up Girls Bra

This week I made my first lace underwire bra!  I learned two new techniques in the making of this bra and the earlier prototype bra, which I refer to later in this post.  First, I altered a full-band Pin-up Girls bra to make a partial band bra that fit me.  Second, I used rigid lace for the cups and the sides of the band. This lace bra was a fun pieces of lingerie to make – I know there are many more lace bras in my future!

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I recently made two bras using the Pin-up Girls Full Band bra pattern from the Fairy Bra Mother, Beverly Johnson.   They turned out really well – both in fit and form.  I’ve never had bras that fit so well.  I love them!

Next, I followed Beverly’s instructions for drafting a partial band bra and I made a prototype bra from a stretch satin and power net that I found at an estate sale (yes, I’ve found some great material at estate sales here in the San Francisco Bay Area!).   This prototype turned out well, too, except that the band was a bit too long.  I knew that when I made the bra again, I would need to reduce the length of the band by one inch overall. Everything else about the fit was spot-on.

 

So when I gathered the pattern pieces for this lace partial band bra, I knew that I needed to do three modifications, as follows:

First, I divided the band in two parts, one part for the rigid lace and the other part for powernet.  Next, I reduced the length of the band by one half inch on each side to make one inch reduction in the overall circumference.  This is the drafted pattern pieces for the band.

Drafted Partial Band Bra Band

This is the band with the seam finished with a tricot bias tape that I made.  More about how I finished the seams later in this post.

Lace Bra Band - Partial Stable Lace

Finally, I had to alter the upper portion of the cup to remove an attachment for the shoulder bands, which would be strap elastic and not the rigid lace.  Here is a picture of the altered top cup.

Altered Upper Cup for Lace Bra

Because this was my first lace bra, and a mockup, I used a sample of lace that I purchased at an estate sale.  This was the same estate sale where I purchased the black materials for the prototype bra.  I happened upon an estate sale one day this spring while taking a walk in my neighborhood.  The previous owner of the home had many lace samples – it appeared that she was a wedding dress designer.  This is a picture of the lace sample.

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I had very little of the scalloped edge to use for the top of the upper cup, so I knew I had to be very careful how I laid out the upper cups.  Note that the low point of the lace scallop was 1/4″ (seam allowance is 1/4″) in from the edge of the cup so that the Low Point of Lace (LOPL) is at the edge of the cups.  I positioned the patterns for each cup in a manner so that the cups matched each other.  This lace design did not allow me to mirror the cups.

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I lined the bra with a very shear tricot from my stash.  I used the “stitch and flip” method to attach the lining to the top of the cup, avoiding lining on the top of the scallops.

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I also made some bias tape from this lining and covered all of the seams inside the bra.  I really like the way it turned out.  Just as pretty on the inside as on the outside.

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In the next post, I will write about the panties, which were made using a Kwik Sew pattern, and the same lace as the bra.  Thank you for reading about the making of my first lace bra!

 

 

 

Intimates · Lace lingerie · Lingerie · Sewing · Sewing Intimates

A Pretty Rosy Chemise and Panties from Butterick B6031 – A Pattern Review

This was my first time using a Butterick pattern by Gertie.  I followed Gertie’s Butterick pattern 6031 to make a chemise and panties from sheer stretch mesh and stretch lace. They turned out really pretty, don’t you think?

I made the chemise, which is a modified variation of version C, and the panties, version D, in a few afternoons of sewing.  Version C is a slip and I altered the pattern to add a bit of flare, to shorten the length and to remove the slit of lace at the hem line, resulting in a pretty chemise.  I used a stretch mesh that I purchased at the Fabric Outlet on Mission St. in San Francisco.  Isn’t it beautiful?  I also purchased the 1-1/2″ stretch lace for the bodice and neckline at this store.  I purchased the lace for the front of the straps at JoAnn’s.  The back of the straps are bra straps from my stash.  I used a 2.5 mm length zigzag stitch for the entire project, with the exception of the darts and the lettuce edging.

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This is version C is a slip and I altered the pattern to add a bit of flare, to shorten the length and to remove the slit of lace at the hem line.  Instead of lace at the bottom of the chemise, I added a lettuce edge using my serger.  I like this look better than the lace for a chemise. 

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This is the first time I’ve made a lettuce edge and I like the way it turned out. It was easy to do and I think it looks very feminine.  I like the way this chemise moves and flows when worn.  It would be pretty as a long gown.

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One thing I didn’t like about this pattern was that the straps are to be made from 1/2″ stretch lace, which would not hold up well, in my opinion.  I made the straps more sturdy by sewing in 1/4″ elastic on the inside of the lace and using adjustable bra straps in the back.  This keeps the straps pretty in the front, and reinforced, and flat, in the back.  These modifications will help this chemise stand up to wear over the years.

Next, I made the panties that are version D in this pattern. I used a black knit cotton to line the crotch.  They were a breeze to make!   Since they are hidden by the chemise, I will make a camisole of the same fabric and lace to go with these panties.

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I used my serger again to do the lettuce edges.  This style is great under a skirt or dress where elastic around the legs isn’t necessary.

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This is a size medium.  The fit is just right. 

Butterick 6031 is a great pattern and I highly recommend it for everyone.  With some pretty fabric, any sewist can have a beautiful chemise, slip or camisole and matching panties in no time at all!

Intimates · Lace lingerie · Lingerie · Madalynne · Sewing · Sewing Intimates · Uncategorized

Two Bralette and Panty Sets from Simplicity 8228

I recently made two bralette and panty sets using Simplicity 8228.  This fabulous pattern was designed by Madalynne “Maddie” Flanigan.   I also have her other pattern, Simplicity 8229, which is an underwire bra and panty.  I am really looking forward to making these. If you haven’t yet had an opportunity to make intimate apparel using Maddie’s patterns, you really should give these a go.  Maddie has tons of information on her website Madalynne.  On her site, you’ll find video tutorials, helpful information on lingerie making, including in-person classes, and lots of beautiful lace and kits for bra and panty-making, plus loads inspiration.  She has three  patterns releasing soon, also with Simplicity.  I can’t wait!

I purchased the material and galloon lace for these sets from the the Fabric Outlet on Mission Street in San Francisco.  This is one of the first fabric stores I visited when I moved to the Bay Area and I love it!  On top of having lots of fabulous fabrics and lace at great prices, and sometimes on sale, they have really nice folks to help you, too.

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The pink mesh is a bit more transparent than this picture shows.  The stretch black galloon lace that I used is 6″ in width.  The pattern calls for 8″ width, but for the bralette size that I made, which was a 36C, I was able to use this smaller width galloon.  I suggest that you lay out all of your pattern pieces prior to cutting to confirm you have enough lace. 

White Bralette and Panty Set Side

The lining used for the bralette, above, and for the main part of the panty, is white with dots.  This stretch galloon lace is 7″ wide.

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This is the pattern I used for both sets and I highly recommend this pattern.  The pattern pieces and construction are well-designed and the instructions are clear.  The bralette and panties come together very quickly.  

Black and Pink Bra - Cutting Out

I did not use the spray adhesive that the designer, Maddie, recommends; instead I cut out the lace and basted it onto an uncut piece of lining.  Once attached, I confirmed that the pieces all fit together correctly and then I trimmed down the lining to match the lace.  This was all very easy. 

Black and Pink Bra - Sewing Pieces

Before trimming the lining, I made sure that the pieces lined up correctly.  

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I used standard 1/4″ black elastic on the inside edges of this bralette.

Black and Pink Bra - Final Bra

There are no straps on this halter-style bralette, resulting in fewer pieces and an easier sew than sewing a standard bra. I used standard 1/4″ black elastic on the inside edges of this bralette.  Before sewing on the elastic, make sure that the hooks and eyes pieces are the same size as the area where they will attach on the bra straps.  If not, you will need to alter (cut) the straps.  

White Bralette and Panty Set BackI really like the design of the panties, and how the lace meets in the back.

The best part about these intimate sets is that they are so comfortable to wear, especially during the hot summer.  It’s also fun to have the lace visible at the back of the neck.   I love this pattern and I’m sure I’ll be making it again many times!