#califabrics, #DIY, #fabricoutletsf, #handmade, #simplicity1538, #simplicitypatterns, Cali Fabrics, califabrics, Fabric Outlet, Sewing, Tailored Shirt

A Tailored Shirt for the Fall from Simplicity 1538

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Bonjour from southern France!  I just finished sewing this tailored shirt using Simplicity 1538, view B.  This was the first time that I’ve made a shirt from this pattern and I am so pleased with the results.  This is a great pattern for a fitted shirt.  I’ve already purchased fabric to make it again!

Simplicity 1538 Pattern Cover

The fabric I used was from my stash; I purchased it last year at Fabric Outlet (or online at Califabrics) in San Francisco.  I like this all-cotton fabric because it goes well with wool vest that I was knitting, as well as other pieces in my wardrobe.  I just finished knitting this wool vest and I love how it looks with my new shirt.

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I started out by making a muslin.  The only alteration I made was to shorten the arms by two inches.  Making a muslin takes extra time, but what I love about the process, besides the fact that the final product fits perfectly, is that the muslin fabric pattern pieces will last forever and I can use them over and over again to make a custom-fit garment.

Below is the muslin piece for the front of the shirt.  I always cut the perimeter of my muslin pieces wide, about 2 – 3 inches, to allow for any modifications to the fit.  Once I determine the sewing lines, I use a compass to draw a 5/8″ seam allowance and then I cut along that line.

Muslin front piece

This is the sleeve piece, modified by shortening.

Sleeve Muslin

All of the seams are flat-felled seams.  I think the inside of this shirt looks as nice inside as it does on the public-facing side.

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The flat-felled seam attaching the sleeve to the body was the most difficult and lots of pins enabled me to make a nice seam on the first pass.

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The collar and collar stand were easy to attach.

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The collar, yoke, front plackets, and cuffs are all top stitched.

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I used buttons that I bought at a tag sale.

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Here’s the back of the shirt.  There is just a bit of gather in the middle.

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Have you tried this pattern? I’d love to hear your thoughts on it.

Thank you for visiting my blog!  Merci et au revoir!

 

 

 

 

 

7 thoughts on “A Tailored Shirt for the Fall from Simplicity 1538”

  1. Wow! What a great looking shirt!!! This really makes me want to sew one myself! Your choice of fabric is updated and attractive…Thanks for all of your sewing details!

    Sincerely,

    R.A.H.

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  2. Barbara, this shirt fits you perfectly! Love the provencal print. I’m impressed how neat your seams are. Gotta try flat-fell seams on my next shirt project. Merci pour l’inspiration!

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  3. Your muslin looks so helpful. I’d love to know how you manage to draw in the sewing lines when also leaving extra seam allowance. And how you get it from the tissue to the muslin before that!

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    1. Hi 36berkeley! Thanks so much for visiting my blog and asking a great question! First I copy the cutting lines from the paper pattern to my muslin. To do this, I place carbon tracing paper, ink side down between the pattern and the muslin and then I use a serrated tracing wheel to copy the cutting lines to the muslin. Then on the muslin I measure 5/8″ in from the tracing line and that’s my sewing line. When I cut out the muslin piece, I leave about 2 – 3 inches of allowance around the cutting line so that I have plenty of room for adjustments. I cut the muslin really roughly because I know I’ll likely be changing the cutting and sewing lines. When I sew my muslin pieces together for the first fitting, I baste along the sewing lines. Sometimes when I know that I will need to make an adjustment I’ll just pin instead of sewing. Once I know the final sewing lines, I’ll either draw these on the muslin in ink or sew them with black thread and 2.5 mm seam. Let me know if this helps! If not, I’m glad to help with more description!

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